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Chasing Giants: A Once-in-a-Lifetime Encounter with the Mountain Gorillas of Rwanda

  • Writer: Nathan Roberts
    Nathan Roberts
  • 1 day ago
  • 4 min read

Updated: 10 hours ago

Some adventures sit on your bucket list so long, they almost start to feel like dreams. For years, I imagined what it would be like to lock eyes with a Mountain Gorilla in the wild—one of our closest relatives, mysterious and majestic. This journey had been years in the making, originally planned before the world turned upside down with COVID. But in 2025, it finally happened.

Silverback watching

Together with my mate Kev, we travelled to Rwanda’s north, staying in the peaceful town of Musanze (formerly Ruhengeri). Our home base was Fravan Eco Lodge, nestled quietly in the hills—a tranquil place that echoed with birdsong and the soft hush of distant forest. It was the perfect place to prepare mentally and physically for what was to come.

School kids near Musanze
The village of Kinigi
Locals heading back from work
Village Weaver bird

A Tribute to a Legend: Dian Fossey’s Legacy

The day before our trek, we visited the Ellen DeGeneres Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund, just outside of town. It was the perfect prologue to our journey—an immersive and deeply moving experience that really set the tone for what lay ahead. As someone who watched Gorillas in the Mist as a kid, I’ve carried a lifelong fascination with wildlife, especially jungle species. Walking through that space, seeing Fossey’s tireless dedication brought to life, was both inspiring and emotional. Having already witnessed Orangutans and Gibbons in Borneo, and with a chimpanzee trek just days away, this trip was turning into a personal pilgrimage through the great apes of the world—one of the most meaningful achievements of my life.

The Ellen De Generes Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund
What a woman!
The Ellen De Generes Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund
From Dian Fossey's original jungle dwellings
Birds of Volcanoes National Park
Kev and I at The Ellen De Generes Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund

The Morning of the Trek

We rose early, our breath forming clouds in the cool mountain air, and made our way through Kinigi, a town just beginning to stir. Locals were heading to work, children in colourful uniforms walked to school, and the distant volcanoes loomed larger with every kilometre. We arrived at Volcanoes Park HQ at 7:00 am, greeted with warm smiles and a much-needed Question Coffee - a Rwandan initiative supporting women coffee farmers. It felt grounding, beginning the day with a story of resilience, fitting for what we were about to experience.

Local kids heading to school
Local kids heading to school
Local  Rwandan kids all wanting a photo
Arriving at Volcanoes National Park HQ
The statues at Volcanoes National Park HQ
Wide awake ready for the Gorilla Trek
Pre Gorilla Hike Question Coffee

Into the Wild: The Trek Begins

Our group was led by Patience, a man whose name could not have been more fitting. Calm, knowledgeable, and deeply connected to the forest, he was accompanied by a team of trackers and porters, all of whom made us feel safe and supported as we began the climb.

The trek was no casual stroll—we ascended through small villages and agricultural land before reaching the boundaries of the National Park - dense, tangled vegetation that clawed at our boots and sleeves. At over 3,500 meters above sea level, the air grew thin, and each step demanded focus. But the anticipation kept us going. Every rustle in the bush, every distant call, made our hearts skip. Somewhere in this misty green world, the Segasera Gorilla Family waited.

Volcanoes National Park Gorilla Trek
Volcanoes National Park Gorilla Trek
Volcanoes National Park Gorilla Trek
Locals on the Volcanoes National Park Gorilla Trek
Villagers on the Volcanoes National Park Gorilla Trek
Volcanoes National Park Gorilla Trek
Volcanoes National Park Gorilla Trek
Volcanoes National Park Gorilla Trek
A chameleon on the Volcanoes National Park Gorilla Trek
Volcanoes National Park Gorilla Trek
Volcanoes National Park Gorilla Trek
Me on the Volcanoes National Park Gorilla Trek
Volcanoes National Park Gorilla Trek
Ken with a Porter on the Volcanoes National Park Gorilla Trek

Face to Face with the Segasera Family

And then—suddenly—they were there.

Emerging from the foliage, the Segasera family came into view. There’s something indescribable about being in the presence of wild gorillas. It isn’t just awe—it’s connection. Their eyes reflect intelligence, curiosity, even playfulness. The silverback, enormous and regal, kept a watchful eye while juveniles tumbled and wrestled nearby. About 5 metres away, A mother cradled her infant. When the curious youngster wandered a little too close to our group, she gave a gentle but firm mock charge—a non-threatening display of dominance that reminded us just how powerful and protective these animals are. We stood still, respectful and humbled, witnessing the instinctive bond between mother and child in its rawest, wildest form.

We stood in hushed reverence, barely breathing, cameras lowered for long moments just to feel it. You can read about Mountain Gorillas. You can watch the documentaries. But nothing, absolutely nothing, prepares you for the raw emotion of sharing space with them.

The First Sighting
Mountain Gorilla from the Segasera Family
Mountain Gorilla from the Segasera Family
Mountain Gorilla from the Segasera Family
Infnant Mountain Gorilla from the Segasera Family
The Silverback Mountain Gorilla from the Segasera Family
The Silverback Mountain Gorilla from the Segasera Family
Infant Mountain Gorilla from the Segasera Family
The Silverback Mountain Gorilla from the Segasera Family
Mountain Gorillas from the Segasera Family
The Silverback Mountain Gorilla from the Segasera Family
The Silverback Mountain Gorilla from the Segasera Family
The Silverback Mountain Gorilla from the Segasera Family
The Silverback Mountain Gorilla from the Segasera Family
The Silverback Mountain Gorilla from the Segasera Family
Junenile Mountain Gorilla from the Segasera Family
The Silverback Mountain Gorilla from the Segasera Family
The Silverback Mountain Gorilla from the Segasera Family

The Descent and Reflection

Coming down the mountain, my legs were wobbly—not just from the climb, but from the emotional weight of it all. The forest seemed to exhale with us, a calm settling in after the intensity of the encounter. In the distance, we began to hear the low, rumbling growl of thunder rolling across the volcanoes—an eerie, beautiful soundtrack to our descent. Moments later, the heavens opened, and warm rain soaked the trail, drumming on leaves and hoods, adding one final layer of wildness to the day. This was more than a trek. It was a journey through time, through history, through the delicate line between our world and theirs.

Ken and I with Mountain Gorillas from the Segasera Family
The Silverback Mountain Gorilla from the Segasera Family

Mountain Gorillas are critically endangered, with just over 1,000 individuals left in the wild. Thanks to rigorous conservation efforts and community-focused tourism in places like Virunga National Park and Volcanoes National Park, their numbers are slowly recovering. It was an honour to be part of that story, even for just a day.

Back at the lodge that evening, Kev and I sat quietly over dinner and a deserved "Virunga Mist" Beer, still processing it all. The mist, the mountain, the gorillas… and the humans who dedicate their lives to protecting them. It was humbling, transformative, and completely unforgettable.

This wasn’t just another tick on the bucket list. This was a soul-shifting experience—one I’ll carry with me forever.

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